mardi 14 mars 2017

The Namibians : Herero woman

13:10
Shot in the vast expanse of the world's largest desert, these stunning portraits of the Herero tribe of Namibia look like they're from a bygone age.









But, dressed in the costumes that have been appropriated from their colonial past, the men, women and children are taking part in a modern re-enactment of their peoples' bloody history.
The tribe's now traditional costumes, pictured here by Jim Naughten, are seen by anthropologists as a fascinating subversion of their former rulers' fashion, showing how the tribe survived a concerted effort by German colonialists to wipe them from the face of the earth.

The history of Herero clothing is extraordinary. Rhenish missionaries first introduced Victorian dress, which the tribe gradually accessorised by adding, for example, cow horn headdresses.
Later, during the 1904 war with Namibia's German colonisers, Herero tribe members claimed the military uniform of dead German soldiers.
Germany officially claimed their stake in a South African colony in 1884, calling it German South-West Africa until it was taken over in 1915.

The first German colonists then arrived in 1892, and conflict with the indigenous Herero and Nama people began.
Between 1893 and 1903, the Herero and Nama peoples' land as well as their cattle were seized by militarily superior German forces who regarded them as subhuman.
Then in 1903, the Herero people learned that they were to be placed in reservations, leaving more room for colonists to own land and prosper.

German rule ended in 1915 when the German army was beaten by the South African - but, once liberated, the Herero men began not only dressing as much like their German oppressors.
Herero women also affected the styles and the airs and graces of the Christian missionary ladies who had come among them in the 1890s.
At the 100th anniversary of the massacre, German Minister for Economic Development and Cooperation Heidemarie Wieczorek-Zeul apologised for the crimes on behalf of all Germans.
But the clothes the Herero choose to wear, both men and women, are a permanent reminder of the great scar gashed in the tribe's history when they came close to being exterminated.

'This is in part assimilation to European culture, and also in part appropriation, a coming-to-terms with, and overcoming of history and the colonial experience,' he said.
Speaking about the clothes Herero women wear, he said: 'A correctly worn long dress induces in the wearer a slow and majestic gait.'
Today, there are around 250,000 Herero peoples in south-west Africa and the tribe is thriving.

lundi 8 février 2016

Afghan clothing

05:36
Afghan clothing styles Reflect That Afghanistan is home to various ethnicities Including the Tajiks, Pashtun, Hazara, Uzbek and smaller populations of Aimaq, Turkmen, Baloch, Pashaei, Nuristani, Arab, Brahui, Pamiri, and Gurjar. They-have Their Own Particular traditions.

Styles

Shirt with "Kandahari doozi" 
Men's clothing includes the khet partug, perahan tunban, the turban and local styles of coats.

Generally, traditional women's dresses in Afghanistan are made from light linens and are loose fitting for ease of movement. They come in many colors and have stitching for details. One unique style of casual women's dress is the Kandahari doozi embroidery stitching of the city of Kandahar. This is stitching very intricately in the linens in different shapes and patterns using very thin threads. The more intricate the design, the more pricey the garment.


More elaborate and fancier dresses are detailed with gold threading (Zardozi) , gold beads, and come in many different colors on silk fabrics. These dresses are usually worn to special occasions and weddings.

Pashtun


Clothing worn by most Pashtun males in Afghanistan and Pakistan (Perahan tunban)
As a chiefly rural and nomadic population, the Pashtun dress of Afghanistan and Pakistan is typically made from light linens, and are loose fitting for ease of movement. The Pashtun dress includes local forms of the shalwar kameez, which are differently made for males and females.

Male clothing

The traditional male dress includes the Khet partug and Perahan wa tunban. Males usually wear kufi, Peshawari cap, turban, sindhi cap or pakul as traditional headgear. Pashtun Leaders sometimes wear a karakul hat, like President Hamid Karzai and former monarchs of Afghanistan.

Female dress




The traditional female dress is the Firaq partūg. Women typically wear solid-coloured trousers, a long kamīs shirt with a belt. Sometimes they will wear an encompassing burqa over this outfit or a tsādar on their head.

More elaborate and fancier dresses are detailed with gold threading, gold beads, and come in many different colors on silk fabrics. These dresses are usually worn to special occasions and weddings.

Many of the co-ethnic groups who live alongside the Pasthuns in Afghanistan, Pakistan have also adopted the dress because of comfort or popular culture. The Pashtun dress is the most popular of the Afghan clothing, in particular the female dress which is known as Gand-e-Afghani.

the clothing of the Kurdish

05:12
One of the attractions of the Kurdistan province is made up of its cultural riches namely literature, crafts, traditions and its clothing. The beauty of the traditional Kurdish dress is admirable and this aesthetic is especially revealed in the clothing of the Kurdish woman. The Kurdish outfit was award-winning festivals in Iranian traditional clothes.





In this mountainous region, the evolution of the costume was made according to geographical location. The holding of Kurdish women is one of the few to have changed very little over time. At first glance, Kurdish clothes look alike but in reality, models and colors change from one locality to another, while the specific reasons for each garment identify the women according to their place of origin. The common ground is the full form of female clothing covering the entire body. Before importing cloth, the main textile products were manufactured by producers in some villages near the mountain Shâhou.

Young Kurdish women wearing traditional clothing, Mahabad, 1941
In general, the holding of women consists of a tunic (tan Poush), a turban (sar Poush) and guiveh.
The models vary according to the activities, ceremonies and regions. Each region has its own vocabulary to describe the different parts of the garment. Note that clothing accessories and ornaments give a double beauty in the traditional dress of Kurdish women.
This traditional costume includes:

The JAFI: The JAFI is a female long pants to the ankles down, the legs are very detailed. In general, the Kurdish village put him to work.
The kowlanjeh: The kowlanjeh, which resembles the peplum is a sleeveless tunic covering the bust, made of velvet or silk brocade.

Clothing Kurdish women Ilam
The sowkhmeh: The sowkhmeh is a great dress, worn with kowlanjeh.
The Shal: The Shal, also named pesht-wen or pesht-ineh, resembling a Japanese obi, comes in the form of a cloth tape of 3 to 10 meters long, worn around the waist.
The kolâw: Or Kolah is a very pretty color hat, adorned with bits of straw, of cylindrical shape, which is worn under a velvet scarf. Both sides of this hat are often attached by a thin rope, twisted and gold, called qatâreh.
The kalâkeh or Dastar: The kalâkeh is a black silk cloth and bulky white, embroidered with gold and silver. This traditional scarf folds triangle and worn in wedding ceremonies and mourning instead of kolâw by wealthy women.
The kourâss: kourâss the price is a simple cloth robe and prestigious with a wide and long skirt down to the ankles.
The keh-wâ or koulijeh: The keh-wâ is a colored jacket, no pockets, less than men short jackets.

jeudi 4 février 2016

Djallaba Moroccan

12:10

Morocco is a rich country in terms of history, traditions, people,culture, religion, climate, geography and so forth. Every one of these aspects of the country influences how Moroccan people are dressed. Among the variety ofclothes in Morocco, we find the djellaba and kaftan, two fine garments that speak of the luxurious clothing style of the country.



If you are walking down the streets of any city of Morocco, you will certainly see some men and women wearing long and loose hooded gowns over their normal clothing. This garment is called the djellaba. It covers the entire body except for the head, the hands and the feet.The djellaba for women is different than the one for men in style and purpose. Women wear a djellaba for different reasons. First of all, it is a very comfortable and aesthetically appealing. Second, it is a modest garment to wear in a Muslim country. Some women accompany it by wearing a scarf around their neck or head. It is also worn when visiting the family on a religious holiday.






Men usually only wear a djellaba on special occasions, sometimes topped with the famous Moroccan red cap, called a fez or tarbouche, and yellow leather slippers, known as baboush or belgha. The woman’s djellaba is more colorful compared to the man’s, and nowadays djellabas are becoming shorter and slimmer. There are verses of the Koran that mention the djellaba as a garment to be worn by Muslim women. A djellaba is mostly worn outside the house and there are djellabas for every day as well as for special occasions.






vendredi 24 juillet 2015

The beoseon

15:24

The beoseon (Korean pronunciation is a type of paired socks worn with hanbok, Korean traditional clothing and is made for protection, warmth, and style.It is also called jokui jokgeon or mal in hanja. According to a book titled Hunmong jahoe  written by Choe Sejin  in 1527 during the reign of King Jungjong of the Joseon Dynasty (1392 - 1910), beoseon was called "bosyeonmal" , so it may be called by the name before the time.


It is not clear when beoseon first began to be worn, but ancient beoseon is assumed to be a form extended from a trouser or bojagi (wrapping clothes) for protecting the foot. During the period of the Three Kingdoms of Korea (57 BC – 668 AD), beonseon made of silk was worn but it was limited by social class. In the Joseon period, beoseon made of a white fabric was usually worn regardless of class except special occasions.


The types of beoseon can be varied by purpose, shape, and sewing technique. Goteun beoseon or also called godeulmok beoseon  and nuin beoseon  are defined by shape.

According to sewing technique, beoseon is divided into som beoseon, gyeop beoseon, hot beoseon, nubi beoseon, and tarae beoseon. Som beoseon  is composed of the outer fabric and cotton (som in Korean) as a batting to give foot warmth and style. Gyeop beoseon  is made with two layers (gyeop) of a fabric without stuffing the inside. Hot beoseon  is made with one layer (hot) and worn as an inner sock to prevent the outer beoseon from getting dirty. Nubi beoseon  is made by quilting (nubi) and usually worn for protection against the cold during winter. The beoseon is considered practical because of the easiness to handle after cleaning although the running stitches can be broken or it is stiff than other beoseon. Tarae beoseon  is decorative socks for children. After quilted, tarae beosoen is embrodered with strings in various colors, and a string is attached to each portion of ankle to bind them at the front.

Although the shape of beoseon does not reflect gender, beoseon for men have a straighter seam than that of women